Most people think cotton is a very sustainable fabric, and I can see why. Cotton is a natural fiber that is breathable, renewable and biodegradable. Old cotton can also be easily recycled to make new yarn and fabric. It has been used for centuries, is one of the most widely used fabrics and also a widely traded commodity on the global markets. It has become an inevitable part of our lives. No wonder it is often referred to as the "fabric of our lives".

Sorry to break your heart, but cotton is not as clean as we all believe. While cotton is a natural and biodegradable material, the problem is with how it is grown. Conventional cotton production methods are environmentally unsustainable. 

What is wrong with cotton? 

Conventional cotton has a hefty environmental and social impact.

1. Cotton is a water-thirsty crop.

Cotton needs a lot of water to grow. What is ironic is that the majority of cotton is grown in water-stressed regions (Source). For eg, in India, inefficient water use means that up to 20,000 liters of water are needed to produce 1kg cotton. In the meantime, 100 million people in India do not have access to drinking water. 

The surface and ground waters in the cotton cultivation regions are often diverted to irrigate cotton fields, leading to freshwater loss through evaporation.

2. Cotton production takes up a hell lot of pesticides & insecticides. 

Cotton cultivation currently uses lots of chemicals. According to Sustainable Trade Initiative, “No commodity is as polluting as cotton".

Some sources say 4 percent of all world pesticides and 10 percent of insecticides are used in cotton-growing (Source). Runoff of pesticides, fertilizers, and minerals from cotton fields contaminate rivers, wetlands, and underground aquifers. 

The indiscriminate use of pesticides in conventional cotton cultivation is bad for the soil and has human health impacts. It severely degrades soil quality, threatens the quality of water, as well as pollutes the local eco-systems. Most cotton production is done using genetically modified seeds. 

3. Cotton production also has human rights issues.  

Cotton is a labor-intensive crop. Yet, labor, health, and safety regulations are nonexistent or not enforced in cotton farming. Child and forced labor are also common practices. So you know now that conventional cotton is not as "sustainable" as you think it is and what most brands make you believe when they talk about their sustainability claims.

In short, COTTON FABRIC IS NOT SUSTAINABLE. Many brands sell you clothing labeled as sustainable because it's crafted with (conventional) cotton. That’s {almost} greenwashing. For e.g., while the “hand-loomed cotton” provides livelihood to workers preserving the ancient handloom crafts, but the material used is still damaging. 

What are my alternatives?

Glad you thought about this. Fortunately, there are plenty of sustainable alternatives to conventional cotton like recycled cotton (best option), organic cotton (certified), hemp, linen, Tencel, cupro and sustainable viscose

Next time you choose a cotton outfit, remember its impact and choose better. In fact, if you can ditch buying “new” altogether and choose to thrift, borrow or rent, that’s even better!